History Fan

La Donna Musicale at SoHip

2011-07-29T10:15:00.000-07:00

La Donna Musicale performs early music composed by women. Laury Gutierrez, the director and viola da gamba player; as well as Laura Gulley on violin, form the core of the group. They have issued four CDs and a fifth compilation disc. Laury does extensive and meticulous research to make for exquisite concerts. Her dedication is to be admired.

Every year La Donna Musicale participates in the SoHIP Summer Early Music Concert Series. Last night Shari Alise Wilson, soprano, and Daniela Tosic, mezzo soprano, harmonized beautifully. The very tall arched ceiling of Emmanuel Church's Lindsey Chapel was perfect for the glorious sound of the duo. After the concert Laury stood at the door with her viola da gamba and bid the audience good night individually. Such personal style. When will they issue their next CD?

Boston Early Music Festival and Niobe: Queen of Thebes

2011-06-13T15:40:00.000-07:00

This afternoon I had the pleasure of listening to soprano Angelique Zuluaga sing works by B. Strozzi, Buxtehude, Purcell, etc. She lived and sang extensively in Colombia. We were lucky to have her in Boston for the BEMF. Harpsichordist Bernard Gordillo performed beautifully on an instrument on loan from La Donna Musicale. Laury Guitierrez, the director of la Donna was in the audience. She will perform twice in the BEMF and again in the SoHIP Early Music Concert Series. Allison Guest Edlberg was wonderful on the baroque violin. She studied at Indiana U. as did the other two performers in this ensemble.

Niobe: Queen of Thebes, the baroque opera was truly incredible. The costumes, sets, chamber orchestra, singing, all of it was wondrous. Four hours passed by so quickly and I forgot to mention the acting and dancing. It was on of the best cultural events that I have ever attended. A kind friend gave me her ticket for the opening performance. See it if you can!

Beauport

2010-07-31T12:18:00.000-07:00

The Beauport Sleeper-McCann House on Eastern Point, Gloucester, is a real gem. It is a forty room mansion built by one of America's first professional interior decorators. DuPont, Rockefeller, Henry James, Isabella Stewart Gardner, Okakura Kakuzo, and John Singer Sargent were house guests. Henry Sleeper mixed American antiques with kitch that was contemporary to his lifetime. Sleeper died in tremendous debt and it was great fortune that the McCanns bought the house intact and left everything in place. It was bequeathed to Historic New England, then known as the Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities. It is open seasonally to the public for guided tours.

Hammond Castle Museum in Gloucester

2010-07-19T14:35:00.000-07:00

John Hays Hammond Jr. (1888-1965) was an inventor, and was lucky enough to meet Thomas Edison, and travel to England as a boy. His father was a mining engineer. The son built the Castle 1926-9 as a gift to his wife. It is splendid overlooking the ocean with beautiful grounds.

Inside is his pipe organ; as well as his Roman, medieval, and renaissance art collection. There are stained glass windows and a covered court yard much as in the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. The little boys seemed to love the museum and the full body armor. It is possible to get there by public transportation on Saturdays.

Howling with Wet Wolves

2010-07-12T09:50:00.000-07:00

Took the the commuter rail to Ipswich where I boarded the Ipswich Essex Explorer bus to Crane's Beach. Beautiful white sand and a spotless bath house. Then on to the The Clam House for an acceptable meal. The highlight of the day was a visit to Wolf Hollow , where I saw four wolves and one brown wolf/dog mix. There was a downpour so thankfully we were under a roof. The wolves got totally soaked and were very appealing. Cheese is their favorite food.

The director gave us a talk that lasted more than an hour and was very charming with explaining wolf pack behavior to the children. Wolf Hollow had been the idea of her late husband. It seemed a good deal for only $7:50. The Ipswich Essex Explorer bus cost $5 for unlimited rides including a walk on fee to the Beach. Tom, the driver, seemed to know everybody in town and was full of good cheer and excellent advice. The bus stops at so many other interesting restaurants, such as Woodman's, and historic house museums.

Lobster at Kelly's Roast Beef

2009-03-15T15:45:00.000-07:00

My generous friend paid for my sister to fly up to Boston to see me today. Jill and I took the Blue Line to Wonderland and walked to Kelly's Roast Beef. This beach stand has some of the best seafood in the Boston area. We walked along Revere Beach in the sun until we came to a small parking area and turn around point. We arrived at the airport just in time for her to take her flight back. It was a really fun time.

Gardner Chamber Orchestra Par Excellence

2009-02-08T13:28:00.000-08:00

Paula Robison led the GCO in a beautiful rendition of Handel's Water Music. Annie Rabbat always provides stellar performances on violin as does Jing Li on the cello. The woodwind section was exceptionally strong with Elah Grandel on bassoon and Kyoko Hida and Mie Shiraishi on oboe. John Gibbons is one of the great harpsichordists of Boston. Paula Robison is such a stand out on flute that is a joy to hear her perform under any circumstances.

Last Sunday Christopher Taylor attempted Bach's Goldberg Variations on a dual keyboard piano. It is an exceptionally challenging piece of music that Glenn Gould performed to near perfection in 1955. Taylor seemed challenged by the piece and Anne Hawley, the director of the Gardner Museum and Russell Sherman, his mentor, were in attendance. I liked the Water Music better but my friend Emily was thrilled to hear the Goldberg Variations performed live.

Cinderella at the Wang Theatre

2008-10-19T15:06:00.000-07:00

Larissa Ponomarenko and Roman Rykine as Cinderella and Her Prince Charming were outstanding in this afternoon's matinee. There was so much to like about this production including set and costume design by David Boechler, contemporary choreography by Canadian James Kudelka, and and brilliant performances by Rie Ichikawa and Melissa Hough as the evil stepsisters. The dancing by the entire corps was great. It was by far the best performance that I have seen by Boston Ballet . It will be performed through October 26 at the Citi Wang Center. Lots of Moms and daughters had a great time. I confess that I really did as well.

The Morgan Library and Teddy Roosevelt Birthplace

2008-09-01T06:40:00.000-07:00

So many Bostonians and New Yorkers have recommended the Morgan Library to me, that I am surprised that I did not visit it sooner. The permanent collection including his personal library and study are such a visual delight. Furthermore the addition by Renzo Piano is open and airy and lets in so much sunlight. The garlicky french fries with brie dipping sauce at the cafe are not to be missed.

By contrast I had not heard good things about the Theodore Roosevelt Birthplace . The building is a 1920s reproduction and many items inside are not family pieces at all. The ranger was a little grumpy and not that knowledgeable, but I was still very glad that I took the tour. Access to the collection is by guided tour only, and they are infrequent. Yet it was so exciting to see the original memorabilia on display on the second floor including his hunting rifle, photos, a ceremonial saddle, etc.

El Greco to Velazquez

2008-05-09T09:27:00.000-07:00

My erudite friend treated three of us to a scrumptuous lunch and the new show at the Museum of Fine Arts. Roni Baer has done an excellent job of curating El Greco to Velazquez: Art During the Reign of Philip III. The first two rooms feature many El Greco's from the collections of major American museums. But starting in the third gallery there are tremendous treasures, such as The Annunciation by El Greco borrowed from The Prado in Madrid. Some truly giant canvasses must have posed a logistical challenge to bring to Boston. The show is a real treat and I would highly recommend it.

Too Many Museums

2008-03-29T10:40:00.000-07:00

Since I am a volunteer at a Museum in the Boston Area, all of the New York City Museums have been granting me free entrance with my ID. Some have even said not to bother waiting in the ticket line and that I should go directly to the information booth. At the Museum of Modern Art it would have saved me a twenty minute wait if I had known. The fifth floor is outstanding with les Demoiselles d'Avignon by Picasso, two beautiful Gauguins, and a room full of Matisses.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Met) has finished refurbishing the 19th century European painting galleries and I saw some of my very favorite Gauguins. Two I had greatly admired at the Gauguin Tahiti show back in Boston at the Museum of Fine Arts four years ago. The Klimt exhibition and the jewelry show that just opened at the Neue Galerie , four blocks north of the Met on Fifth Avenue, were both excellent. So I have to confess that in twenty-four hours I saw seven museums and a National Memorial, all located in Manhattan. Too many Museums and very much fun.

Rameau and the Fabulous French Baroque

2008-02-09T06:43:00.000-08:00

Christina Day Martinson, violin, Daniel Ryan, basse de violon and cello, Suzanne Strumpf, traverso, Michael Bahmann, harpsichord, and special guest Aaron Engebreth, baritone, gave a superlative concert last night in the Back Bay. Musicians of the Old Post Road are consumate musicians and their concerts are a delight.

Their Telemann & Bodinus Quartets CD is wonderfully melodic. Once again I thank my generous friend for the concert, dinner, and the CD. His enthusiasm for early music is contagious. He said last night that "Rameau was considered to be the French Bach."

Claremont Trio and Family

2008-01-13T14:48:00.000-08:00

I was lucky enough to be able to exchange a few words with Donna Kwong and Julia Bruskin of the Claremont Trio before their concert this afternoon at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum . They were as gracious as I would have expected. Then I chatted with Mr. Bruskin; the father of Emily, the violinist, and Julia, the cellist. He is a lawyer and amateur violist. He did not feel that Harvard, his alma matar, was supportive enough of his performance ambitions. Needless to say, he expressed no regrets that his daughters chose to enroll in the Columbia Julliard dual degree program, despite their having also been accepted at Harvard. The concert was great, but they always are. If you read my blog, then you know that the Claremont Trio is my absolutely favorite musical ensemble.

The Six Brandenburg Concertos

2007-12-10T11:18:00.000-08:00

Annie Rabbat, first violin; Beth Guterman, first viola; Jing Li, first cello; Misha Grandel, soprano trumpet; and the entire Gardner Chamber Orchestra, performed wonderfully last Sunday. Paula Robison, the director of the Orchestra, and Orlando Cela played harmoniously together on their flutes. All of the musicians played passionately and eloquently. As a musician in the audience commented, "It was a real tour de force."

Tickets are now on sale by phone and on-line for the Winter/Spring 2008 concert series. Many sell out so it is advantageous to purchase them in advance. While at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum relax around the courtyard , enjoy the art, and try the cafe . The food is very good.

Poetry at the Loring Greenough House

2007-12-06T05:56:00.000-08:00

Mary Collins read from her book You and the Sun at a historic house museum in Jamaica Plain. Her poetry is very visual and her delivery was excellent. She was joined by two other excellent poets who presented in riveting style. The Loring Greenough House was built before the Revolutionary War and has wonderful French wallpaper and period antiques. The first floor serves many community functions including the monthly poetry readings as well as folk and chamber music concerts. I should go back soon to take a tour and see the collections on the second floor.

Stage Door at Boston College

2007-11-20T14:40:00.000-08:00

John Houchin, Chair of the Boston College Theatre Department , directed a highly entertaining comedy/melodrama that allowed many theater arts majors to shine. The play was set in Manhattan, in the 1930s, in a boarding house for aspiring actresses.

The first act opened with a great set and lots of actors dancing in period attire. One main plot line emerged with numerous smaller parts for a very large cast. Shan Agish played Ben Kingsley, the hero who sacrificed his career to give his girlfriend, the heroine, the chance to star in a play.

Lauren McLaughlin played Olga Brandt, a comically overwrought pianist with a thick accent. Although Lauren played a small part, she got a lot of laughs and was highly entertaining. The second act opened with a dance solo that was complex and flawlessly executed. All of those involved in the production, their families, and their friends have reason to be proud.

Museums in Manhattan

2007-09-24T10:04:00.000-07:00

The Guggenheim Museum is undergoing repairs and a new exhibition was being installed, so only a few side galleries were open. Still it is pay by contribution Friday night after 5:45 p.m. and many of their most famous paintings were on display. The Halls of Asian Mammals and Peoples are old exhibitions at the American Museum of Natural History yet I found them interesting and still very relevant.

The Hudson River School and Asher B. Durand shows at the New York Historical Society were interesting and very quiet for a Saturday afternoon. And it is just one block away from the AMNH. The cafeteria at the Metropolitan Museum of Art had surprisingly good food. Most Museum food is just awful. We toured some period rooms while there. It seems almost everything at the Met is of such high quality. My sister really loves the Museum and goes often.

DeCordova Museum

2007-09-02T13:48:00.000-07:00

A good friend and I saw a new exhibition at the DeCordova Museum featuring model trains traveling through appealing and creative environments designed specifically for the show. Trainscape: Installation Art for Model Railroads succeeds in creating highly appealing fantasy scenes juxtaposed with the traditional theme of train sets. It is a clever idea and the result is a delight. A world made from glass was so enticing as were many other themed elements of the larger exhibition. Two of the large trains were still. The effect would have been enhanced if they were in operation as well.

Pollock Matters

2007-09-01T13:04:00.000-07:00

The McMullen Museum at Boston College opened an outstanding exhibition of modern art that will be on display through December 9, 2007. The art is of such high quality and so exciting that it should get very crowded. Several paintings attributed to Jackson Pollock were found in a locker and have been at the center of a scholarly and artistic debate. Some experts say they are by the artist and others say that they cannot be. The Museum has shown great courage to mount the show and it may bring fame and justified acclaim to The McMullen.

Unfortunately my entry about the exhibit of Modern Belgian Art from the Simon Collection, hosted by the McMullen, was accidentally erased. It was a fine and interesting show and an erudite guard had invested much time explaining it to me. The same guard was present today and he warmly greeted me by name. Visitors should be warned that on certain Saturdays that coincide with Boston College home football games, there will be no parking for non residents within a mile radius of the campus. On other days parking is available and the Museum is free. Not only is the art in this exhibit interesting, and extremely significant, much of it is very aesthetically pleasing as well. Do see this show at least once.

Ipswich Historic Houses

2007-08-18T14:38:00.000-07:00

One month ago I toured the Great House on Castle Hill on the Crane Estate. I took the Ipswich Essex Explorer bus from the Ipswich train depot and then climbed the hill. The views from the English Country House fifty-nine room mansion were spectacular. Including Crane's Beach which at one time was owned by the same family as the Great House. Wood paneling and carving on the interior was imported from English homes and estates. It is one of many properties owned by the Trustees of Reservations .

Today I had an excellent guide for the Heard House, which is owned by the Ipswich Historical Society . While only about twenty percent of the objects in the house belonged to the family, it was more of a historical museum located in a Federal Period House. Of special interest were the China Trade Room and the Arthur Wesley Dow Gallery. One of the Heard sons dropped out of high school and was sent to apprentice in a trade in Boston. To his family's surprise he soon became a wealthy merchant buying and selling opium in the China Trade. A strange looking object that I could not identify in the room was a period opium pipe.

Arthur Wesley Dow studied in France in the nineteenth century and was one of the early instructors of Georgia O'Keefe. He was also Ipswich's best known artist. The influence of the impressionists on his work was apparent. The next room was the Ipswich Painters Gallery which also had some nice oils. Time did not permit a tour of the Whipple House accross the street.

The commuter rail was delayed for hours on the way back to Boston. So I took a bus to Revere and walked along the beach to Kelly's Roast Beef food stand. Their fried clams are famous and I ate them while walking to the the blue line T, which would take me back to Boston.

Bristol, Rhode Island

2007-08-12T10:39:00.000-07:00

Bristol is part of the East Bay region of Rhode Island. Once there we walked around the Blithewold Mansion and admired the gardens with tall trees, especially the giant sequoia. The house also has a beautiful lawn in back that leads to the Narragansett Bay. Unfortunately we were too late for a house tour, but we did drive through Bristol and see many historic houses from the road. It appears that the town has several museums and promising restaurants. My friends drove me to Colt State Park which juts right out into the Bay. Upon returning to Boston they cooked me a delicious dinner and drove me home. Two Saturdays in a row they have taken me on exciting new day trips.

Saturday at the Beach

2007-08-05T15:39:00.000-07:00

Friends drove me to Wingaersheek Beach in Gloucester. The sand was very white and clean. There was also a concession stand and changing rooms. According to the website it costs $20-$25 for parking, but we came in the late afternoon and were only charged $15.

Phillips House Museum

2007-07-22T13:38:00.000-07:00

In August 2006 I wrote about the Phillips House Museum in Salem, Ma, which was run by an independent not-for-profit. It was in transition to becoming owned and operated by Historic New England . The latter owns a large number of properties. With today's visit I wanted to see what had changed. On previous tours we had peeked into most rooms from behind ropes or ventured in only on the runners. Although the tours were very good, I always wanted to see more.

Today we wore shoe coverings, as are required in most Historic New England properties, and were allowed into the rooms to get a better look. Our guide was excellent. He spoke in small segments rather than lecturing us.

There is now a $5 admission charge, which is very reasonable. The store offers the usual Historic New England mugs, tote bags, books, videos, and postcards. The reception was very gracious and it was a highly enjoyable experience.

Tourism in Gloucester

2007-07-14T14:29:00.000-07:00

As soon as I got off the commuter rail in Gloucester I asked the first person that I saw for directions. To my surprise it was an old friend who had never been to Gloucester before either. After chatting for a few minutes I went in the wrong direction for the Cape Ann Historical Museum but was there in a few minutes anyways. What a great collection! The Fitz Henry Lane Gallery has so many oils by this artist as well as decorative arts and a nice ambiance. On the top floor there was a special exhibition of Fitz Henry Lane and Mary Blood Mellen. She was a very talented pupil of his. Lots of oils of ships, waves, harbors, sunsets etc. It is pretty grand and there through September 16, 2007.

I had a good tour of the Sargent House Museum and it would certainly fascinate anybody interested in early American feminist authors. Judith Sargent Murray, for whom the house was built, self published under a pseudonym in the late eighteenth century. Of particular interest to me were oils and watercolors by John Singer Sargent and some drawings of his from as young as five years old. That was worth the trip alone. John Singer Sargent and his relatives had contributed items when they heard of the establishment of the Museum.

Another Visit to Spectacle Island

2007-07-11T15:25:00.000-07:00

Some of the Boston Harbor Islands are easily reached by ferry from Long Wharf near the New England Aquarium . The Harbor Islands are managed by a consortium of the National, State, and City agencies as well as by private entities. A visit to the Islands can make for an enjoyable, safe, and relatively inexpensive daytrip from Boston. The Islands are usually less crowded Monday- Wednesday and the boat ride to them is slightly cheaper. Once on one of the Islands, ferry service to another is free. But if you want to visit more than one Island in the same day, you will want to catch a boat from Boston at noon or even earlier.

I wrote about a visit to Spectacle Island in June 2006 of this blog. One year later the trip was even better than the last. The Harbor Express boats were on time and not too crowded. The Island was very clean with full amenities and the signage was clear and informative. My friend and I climbed to the top of the little knoll ( which is about 130 feet above sea level ) and had a beautiful 360 degree view of the harbor and the Boston skyline. The water was a little chilly for swimming at 61 degrees, but there were lifeguards and bathers in their suits wading into the water. Three and one half hours on Spectacle Island was just the right amount of time. It was really a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon.

The John Cabot House

2007-07-07T14:22:00.000-07:00

Stephen Hall, the director of the Beverly Historical Society and Museum ,provided me with excellent advice for daytrips to admire the historical houses and to learn about local history. Today I was very fortunate to receive a lengthy, detailed, and very informative tour from the curator of their history museum and archives located in the handsome John Cabot House. The Museum has some temporary exhibition spaces and some longer term exhibitions such as Beverly Bank: An Early American Bank, that includes; a real vault, real and counterfeit paper money, and a balance for weighing gold.

John Cabot was an ancestor of the famous Cabot-Lodge political family and while no Cabots remain in Beverly there are some Lodges. Beverly was once a thriving port and then went through an agricultural phase. Later it became the world headquarters of The United Shoe where 95% of the shoemaking machines for the world were manufactured. The giant factory closed twenty years ago and now high tech firms have moved in near route 128. Stephen Hall wrote that "Henry Clay Frick summered in Beverly at the turn of the 20th century, as did, Oliver Wendell Holmes (both the poet and the jurist) as did President William Howard Taft."

Beverly has so much history that it would definitely be worth another visit. I wonder if walking tours are offered. On Wednesdays from 7 p.m. until 10 p.m. there are meetings of transportation enthusiasts in the John Cabot House. The Historical Society has a nice store and also owns two other historic houses.

Kimball Farm

2007-07-05T05:40:00.000-07:00

To celebrate the Fourth of July a friend took me out for a ride in the country. Our final destination was Kimball Farm in Westford, MA. We ate giant homemade ice creams for $ 3.40 each and looked at some goats and a hen. We also watched bumper boats, the driving range, mini golf, and looked in the country store. It was so fun to get far out of Boston and see some countryside along the way.

The Boston Early Music Festival

2007-06-16T10:42:00.002-07:00

Every two years Boston has a very popular early music festival. Musicians and aficionados come from around the world for some of the best performances of their kind. Last night my generous friend treated a spiritual friend of his and me to a concert of Mozart violin sonatas at Jordan Hall. I cannot remember a concert that I enjoyed more. My generous friend said that the forte pianist Kristian Bezuidenhout, originally from South Africa, has participated in many concerts in the festival. His playing was animated and seemingly perfect.

New York Vacation

2007-06-03T15:00:00.000-07:00

Visited my sister in Manhattan this weekend. It was truly a wonderful vacation. Her friends are so witty and smart and her dinner party last night was a delight. This morning before I left the City we had breakfast with up and coming dancers who were competing for contracts with the Joffrey Ballet in Chicago and the American Ballet Theater in NYC. We also met some more established dancers. What could be more fun?

Of course I like art so Friday night we went to Summer of Love at the Whitney Museum. It was tremendously entertaining. Yesterday I spent a few hours at the MET admiring the European painting collection. Early Netherlandish, and Italian oils were the highlights as well as the five Vermeers. I was a little disappointed with the special exhibition The Clark Brothers Collect. But what an incredible permanent collection! This trip was every bit as good as my Christmas trip to New York and that is a strong statement.

Daytrip to Connecticut

2007-05-12T08:33:00.000-07:00

I could have spent several hours at the Yale University Art Gallery but it was just the first stop on the bus trip. I would like to return and spend more time with the European, Asian and African collections. But all of the art on display seemed of such high caliber. The Yale Center for British Art, which is across the street, has some paintings by George Stubbs, such as the zebra in the Royal Garden, that have been reproduced everywhere. Great Turners, Constables, and it seemed most of the really famous British artists from the mid nineteenth century and before were on display. Neither Museum has an admission charge.

Lunch was at a very tasty American restaurant called Zinc. The director emeritus gave a very entertaining talk about Paul Mellon, who had given his collection, commissioned Louis Kahn to design the building, and left a large endowment to the Center for British Art.

The last stop of the day was at the Florence Griswold Museum . By that time I was pretty well saturated with fine art. It was the summer home of an artist colony of American tonalists and impressionists, including Childe Hassam. Unfortunately Ms. Griswold died penniless and all of the contents of her buildings were auctioned off to settle the debts. So her house is now decorated to look like it would have circa 1910. But few of the furnishings are original. The grounds were absolutely beautiful and it was easy to imagine artists painting en plein air on the lawn.

Classic Balanchine

2007-05-06T14:49:00.000-07:00

Boston Ballet did a pleasant and competent rendition of three works choreographed by Balanchine. Ballo Della Regina was upbeat and really fun, with the live orchestra performing Verdi. Both Valses Nobles and Sentimentales, and The Four Temperments were a little dark. Nobody stood up at the end to give a standing ovation. In fact the applause was pretty light. One of the dancers got caught in the curtain while exiting from the side. Ballerinas kindly reached in to extricate him and pull him up.

The company is offering a two-for-one special for some of next week's performances. Mention code GSBB241. Also a new subscriber special for the 2007-2008 season. $125 + $10 handling fee for five performances with side orchestra seating. That is a great deal! I am looking forward to seeing Giselle one week from today at the Wang Center. It is the final ballet of the 2006-2007 season and will run for two weeks.

Hopper at the MFA

2007-05-03T15:30:00.000-07:00

The Edward Hopper retrospective show opens to the general public on Saturday, May 5th at the Museum of Fine Arts . It should be a big crowd pleaser . His work is now in vogue and it has a nice mix of realism and a modern approach with intense psychological implications. He touches on the existential loneliness that many of us city dwellers are all too familiar with. Furthermore much is left open for interpretation allowing us the viewers to be full participants in the creative process.

The downside is that the subject matter is rather limited. There are so many Maine lighthouses and New England wood frame houses that appreciating the subtle nuances that makes each one an important, unique statement, can grow wearisome. His oils of urban buildings were often lost on me. It was getting harder to focus by that point.

His studies of urban women including The Automat were a welcome change. The very next room had Nighthawks, New York Movie, and a third oil of a man and woman in an ambiguous office setting. Just great! The final room had his later work which seemed quite innovative. The label on the wall seemed to imply that he was running out of ideas in his later years. On the contrary, I found his later work to be full of lots of exciting departures from what he had done before.

Alvin Ailey at the Wang Center

2007-04-29T15:41:00.000-07:00

Once every year Alvin Ailey comes to Boston. I saw them many years ago with a friend who had danced semi-professionally. We were delighted with the children's matinee. We came up afterwards for the question and answer session with the performers. It was very exciting.

This afternoon's performance was equally good with a larger audience. They danced The River, The Golden Section, and Revelations, the latter is one of their signature pieces. Bostonians are always delighted with Revelations. The River was clever and beautifully executed. The Golden Section was very sexual and perhaps a little too forward for a Boston audience. Some people around me were obviously upset by it from what they were loudly saying. On the other hand the arts cannot always play it safe and make a statement at the same time. Choreographed in 1983 by Twyla Tharp, it reflected the post disco ethos of the time.

The Rose Nichols House

2007-04-24T13:19:00.000-07:00

After the prerequisite swan boat ride and stroll through the Public Gardens I walked up Beacon Hill. The Rose Standish Nichols House Museum on Mount Vernon Street is open for tours despite the fact that they are in the process of cataloging the collection and having some of the the items restored. The staff seem quite enthusiastic about their undertaking. The four rooms on display do look a little more spruced up then on my previous visits. It lacks the lived in look that many less well attended historic house museums acquire after decades of minimal attention. The Nichols House Museum must have deep pockets or a very large grant for this project. After numerous tours I always enjoy yet one more walk through this elegant and interesting woman's home.

An Excellent View of Boston

2007-04-20T16:15:00.000-07:00

The Skywalk on the fiftieth floor of the Prudential Building usually costs $11, which is a little steep for a nice view. But today the price was discounted and there were some improvements since I had been there last. Parts of the now defunct Dreams of Freedom Museum were salvaged and installed up there. It was a Museum about immigration to Boston and the immigrant and ethnic groups that now make up Boston. It was a good idea, but not very popular when it opened. A free headset offered a corny guide to the City below. It is still a very fun activity to do once every few years on a sunny day. I wonder what it would be like to see a sunset from there.

The New ICA on Easter

2007-04-08T15:15:00.000-07:00

My sister came to visit for the holiday. After lunch we walked along the harbor, past Fan Pier, to the New Institute of Contemporary Art . A metal bunny by Jeff Coons was nice. Most of the art in the temporary collections was OK. The gallery with benches overlooking the harbor with huge glass windows was definitely the highlight. We could have sat there for hours and read magazines or written letters. It was peaceful and wonderful. The art in the permanent collection was pretty dreadful. When we left the Museum we asked for directions to the nearest public transportation but it seemed pretty confusing. So we jumped in a cab to get her flight on time. Nice to spend Easter with family.

The Last Ruskinians at the Fogg Art Museum

2007-04-07T08:15:00.000-07:00

This exhibition just opened to the general public this morning and I would highly recommend it. The watercolors were made in the second half of the 19th century and the early twentieth century. The artists in this exhibition, with the exception of one work by Turner, are not nearly as well known as Hopper, Sargent, and Homer, from the last watercolor exhibit at the Fogg . However, the very real looking works in this exhibit are highly aesthetically pleasing. John Ruskin, Herbert Moore, and Joseph Lydon Smith, have some wonderful depictions of nature, still lifes, as well as Italian and classical architecture.

A good museum should highlight the works of lesser known artists of merit as well as showing off the masters and those artists currently in vogue. Harvard's first professor of art history, Charles Eliot Norton, was a big fan of Ruskin's work and his followers. At a time when French art was becoming more daring, this was a more conservative school. Maybe history will be kinder to these artists than the 20th century was to them.

Japanese Art in Providence

2007-04-01T11:30:00.000-07:00

Following a friend's advice I took the train to Providence today to see the Japanese exhibits currently on view at the Rhode Island School of Design Museum . The Museum is free on Sunday mornings and I almost felt a little guilty having such a nice trip to Rhode Island without spending any money there. The special exhibition of sixty Japanese woodblock prints from the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Collection was outstanding. Without a doubt worth a special trip. Feathers, Flowers, Talons, and Fangs: Power and Serenity in Japanese Nature Prints, on view through June 10th, is lush with large colorful flowers, birds, and some animals. Some of the great masters of the medium such as Katsuka Hokusai and Utagawa Hiroshige are represented in the collection on display.

Another room of woodblock prints had a case with the traditional materials for making the finished product. There were some interesting monochrome prints on the walls along with works that were more colorful. A third room had a ravishing display of embroidered silk kimonos and fabrics. With a final view of the nine feet tall wooden Buddha, my visit was complete.

A friendly guard told me that he had really come to like art very much after working at the Museum. He urged me to return in May when the several galleries will be refurbished and ready to view. Just as on my last visit to the Museum, the guards take great pride in their Museum. As I was leaving the man at the front desk said that Providence had a lot to offer as a tourist destination. In the last year I have had several nice day trips to the College Hill area of the City. I would be inclined to agree with him.

The Weng Collection

2007-03-10T15:38:00.000-08:00

Chinese painting and calligraphy are not usually a favorite of mine, but the new exhibition at the Museum of Fine Arts is very appealing. The exhibit is so well designed and presented with the scroll of the painting Ten Thousand Li up the Yangtze River running the entire width of one room. Other scroll paintings are treated in a similar manner. Also a contemporary scroll painted by Wan-Go H.C. Weng, the owner of the collection.

At first blush it seems as if Wan-Go has a tremendous ego to have two videos playing of him describing the Yangtze River Scroll as well as a second about himself, the collection,and his family. But the six generations of collectors that built up and preserved the collection are an integral part of the story of the art. All of the personal information in this case really does seem relevant on further examination. It would be interesting to see what the professional art critics say about it.

Boston Athenaeum Art Exhibition

2007-02-14T10:28:00.000-08:00

The Boston Athenaeum has a wonderful new exhibit of items from their own collection. They have extensive art holdings of which only a tiny fraction is on view at any one time. To celebrate the bicentennial of the institution a truly excellent show has been mounted. Included are a nice John Singer Sargent, Gilbert Stuarts, a statue by Horatio Greenough, documents, etc. It really is a must see, and I have never felt that way before about an exhibit at the Boston Athenaeum. It is all located on the first floor, which is open to the public without charge.

Italain Renaissance Sculpure

2007-01-31T07:00:00.000-08:00

Usually when the Museum of Fine Arts mounts exhibits that come exclusively from their own holdings of European art, those of us who have been visiting the Museum for years see little new to marvel at. An impressionist exhibit held in the Gund Gallery a few years ago left many of us nonplussed. But Donatello to Giambologna: Italian Renaissance Sculpture at the MFA, is a notable exception. Many of the statues from the collection have never been on public view at the MFA before. Those that have are definitely worth seeing again. The exhibit will remain through July 8th and I predict that it will get pretty crowded during peak Museum visitation hours.

A Private Library and the Frick Museum

2007-01-01T12:04:00.000-08:00

My sister's neighbor and good friend belongs to the New York Society Library . It is a private member's only library not unlike The Boston Athenaeum . There are paintings, old maps, and documents on the walls. One of the upper floors offers a quiet area for writers. He took me there so that we could both do some writing. It is located on East 79th Street in Manhattan.

From the Library it was a short walk to the Frick Museum . The permanent collection is stunning with Dutch Masters, English, Spanish, French, and Italian oil paintings. It is not a large Museum and it was not crowded like the The Metropolitan Museum of Art . The Masterpieces of European Painting from the Cleveland Museum of Art was a nice small exhibit. Domenico Tiepolo (1727-1804) A New Testament, was not very interesting. He lacked the strong sense of line and real mastery that his more famous father had. Few people were downstairs in that exhibit and when I saw it I understood why.

The Met and the Ukrainian Institute

2006-12-31T06:47:00.000-08:00

The Metropolitan Museum of Art was so crowded over the Christmas holiday. Despite the absolutely incredible art, it was not fun being constantly jostled inside the buildings. The collections are so extensive that it is hard to navigate once inside. I did find my way to the Cezanne to Picasso exhibit, which was outstanding. I had already checked the exhibit catalog out of the library, so the paintings looked vaguely familiar. A relative had warned me that the label copy was a little tedious, so I did not fight the crowds to read all of the captions. But I did enjoy some marvelous Gauguin's, Cezanne's, and Van Gogh's. In fact I liked most everything except for the later works by Picasso.

It had been a long day and I needed to sit down, get warm, and rehydrate. On the corner of Fifth Avenue and 79th Street is the elegant and ornate Ukrainian Institute. Admission was $5 to see lousy contemporary art by Ukrainian artists for sale, but that was not the point. It was empty, quiet, and warm inside. The couches were exceptionally comfortable and the interior of the building itself was handsome. The carved wooden banisters were a treat as were the moldings and doors. I sat and wrote until I regained my strength. It was $5 well spent.

Grant's Tomb and Columbia University

2006-12-30T08:35:00.000-08:00

You may wonder why I would pick General Grant's Tomb to visit of all things on a brief visit to Manhattan. I had seen the exterior numerous times and even heard Dizzie Gillespie perform there for free in the summer of 1981. It was part of the Cool Jazz Festival. This time I went inside. There was not that much to see. The actual tombs of the General and his wife resembled les Invalides in Paris, where Napoleon is entombed. Another benefit of the visit was that I could get a stamp in my National Parks Passport. I have only collected a few cancellations in it since 2004.

The beautiful main campus of Columbia University designed by the architectural firm of McKim, Mead, and White, is only a few blocks from Grant's Tomb. Low Library is truly grand with what is known as "the steps" that lead down to street level. There were no students on campus as the University was on winter break. But there were many of us tourists admiring the campus. Then I had lunch at Tom's Restaurant. The outside was an integral part of Seinfeld although the inside looks much more like a typical inexpensive Manhattan Greek diner.

American Museum of Natural History

2006-12-29T11:05:00.000-08:00

The Hall of the African Peoples is an old exhibit but I enjoyed the fact that some of the label copy would never be written today. There were lots of religious, farming, and hunting objects, as well as musical instruments and masks. A diorama of Berber people in the desert was very dark as was much of the exhibit. But the actual objects were of top quality throughout and well worth the hour that I spent in that section. That was all that I saw of the Museum on this visit to NYC.

Back to Providence

2006-12-01T09:53:00.000-08:00

Yesterday it was forecast to be in the upper 60s, so I took the day off from work and returned to Providence. I spent my time on the College Hill section of the City where Brown University and the Rhode Island School of Design are located. I walked for several miles getting quite a workout in the process. My tour began at the First Baptist Church that was constructed between 1774 and 1775. Very large with a nice chandelier in the center of the sanctuary. Besides that it was of a simple and rather unadorned Georgian style. Although of great historical significance I would not make the self-guided tour a priority on a day trip again. Roger Williams founded the Baptist church in Rhode Island in reaction to the puritans of Massachusetts from whom he had fled.

The Providence Athenaeum is a private library housed in a Greek Revival building. The inside is handsome and must be a nice place to curl up with a book or to write. I received a very gracious welcome there. But the highlight of the day was the small, one room, Haffenreffer Museum of Anthropology on the campus of Brown University. The exhibit Believing in Africa was largely curated by undergraduate and graduate students. It looked at Islam, Christianity, and native spiritual beliefs in sub Saharan Africa. The wooden masks and other objects were of excellent quality and the text and label copy were very well written. The sole employee in the Museum at the time was very welcoming and interesting to chat with. The main section of the Brown campus was very handsome.

The Houses of Benefit Street in Providence

2006-11-27T12:28:00.000-08:00

This morning I caught the 8:30 a.m. double decker commuter rail to Providence, Rhode Island. The Roger Williams National Memorial visitor's center is just a ten minute walk from the train station. A very helpful ranger suggested that I take a self-guided tour of nearby Benefit Street. The $3 guide book was extremely helpful and rich with architectural information. There were so many houses built in the 18th and 19th centuries. One handsome brightly painted house next to another with a few Italianate brownstones intermingled.

There were so many gems that I only admired a small section of Benefit Street and I have decided to return soon. In the Old State House I was allowed to look at the room where the Rhode Island constitution was ratified. Walked by the first Baptist Church on North Main Street. Rhode Island was founded by Roger Williams on the principle of true religious freedom for many faiths. Providence had the first Baptist Church in the United States. The Truro Synagogue in Newport was founded in the mid 18th century, and is still holding services.

Beethoven's Fourth Symphony

2006-11-21T12:13:00.000-08:00

At Faneuil Hall the Boston Classical Orchestra performed their first ever all Beethoven concert. It was sold out at both performances. My generous friend treated a good friend of his and me to the concert and a lobster dinner afterwards. I was not familiar with Beethoven's Fourth Symphony and I really enjoyed it. It had some of the predictability and pleasant sound that pervades much of Haydn's compositions. The BCO also performed the Triple Concerto with the Boston Trio.

John F. Kennedy Library and Museum

2006-11-16T14:38:00.001-08:00

The JFK Library and Museum only tells part of the story of JFK's life. A good place to start is at the JFK Birthplace in Brookline, MA, which is run by the national park system. The birthplace is full of interesting information about his family and childhood. Unfortunately it is only open seasonally. The JFK Library and Museum has a twenty minute video about his life up until the point where he was nominated to be the democratic party's candidate for president. The Museum has interesting footage of his nomination acceptance speech and part of his first debate with Richard Nixon as well as period memorabilia.

Much of the JFK Library and Museum consists of noisy original footage of his speeches. After a few hours I began to get a headache from the competing videos. But the sections including Jackie speaking Spanish and her visit to India were great. Early photos of her are charming as are her grammar school essays. Her nationally televised video introducing the White House to the American Public is a definite highlight of the Museum. Both she and Jack were so photogenic and charming. This comes across in the video clips and the still photographs. I wish that they could have included pictures and writing samples from Jack when he was a boy. Jackie comes across in much more depth because of the long timespan that the exhibits cover.

In Motion: The African American Migration Experience

2006-10-30T10:05:00.000-08:00

The National Heritage Museum has an interesting temporary exhibit detailing migration patterns of African Americans. The first room is very sobering with reward notices for runaway slaves and also notices of slaves for sale. In other rooms the great migration of African Americans from the South to the North from 1900-1930 was shown in photographs. Most of the exhibit consists of photos. Another section was devoted to the Haitian immigration and recent immigrants from Sub Saharan Africa. Finally the recent reverse migration from the North back to the South is shown. Statistics of African Americans migrating are in evidence throughout the exhibit space. The information presented is limited, but it is such a vast subject. A mostly positive spin on contemporary African American experiences is clear.

The Museum is operated by the Scottish Rite Free Masons and is always free. It is located in Lexington on a large plot of property that is also a headquarters for the masons. The gift store has books about masonry and the library and archives are open to the public and researchers. I had imagined that they were extremely secretive, but I was given a very cordial welcome and invited to search the online catalog. They had a nice exhibit of old books about masonry and maps of the United States. I need to return to Lexington soon and see the rest of the museum. Many years ago they had a wonderful exhibit about the Buffalo Soldiers.

Daytrip to the Berkshires

2006-10-27T06:41:00.001-07:00

The Sterling and Francine Clark Institute in Williamstown, MA has a wonderful collection of nineteenth century French art. Among its riches are many oils by Renoir in a large room of impressionist paintings. In other galleries are some of John Singer Sargent's and Winslow Homer's best work. Nearby is the Williams College Museum of Art that is purported to also have an excellent collection.

Edith Wharton, the Pulitzer Prize winning author, left Newport, Rhode Island at the end of the 19th century and built a house called The Mount in the Berkshires. It was a writer's retreat and she never had more than five visitors at one time. That was such a contrast to the grandiloquent parties in Newport in the summer. Her first book was about architecture and interior design.

Major restoration on the house began in 1999. It is a work in progress and will cost 25 million dollars to complete. Boston area families have contributed millions towards the project. Since there have alreay been several frosts in the Berkshires the gardens were not at their best. Much of the interior on the third floor was barren. Yet our guide did a fantastic job of telling the story of Edith Wharton's life and her accomplishments.

We arrived at Chesterwood at closing time and the staff and guide were so welcoming and gracious that we were still given a tour of Daniel Chester French's house and sculpture studio. Afterwards cookies and hot drinks were waiting for our tour group. As we pulled away we had a beautiful sunset that reminded me of a painting of Prout's Neck at West Point by Homer that I had seen a few hours before at the Clark Institute. The tour organizers could not have been more gracious and kind.

Hancock-Clarke House

2006-10-16T13:50:00.000-07:00

The Lexington History Society offers tours of three local buildings all important in 1775 when fighting began between the colonists and the British regulars. The Buckman Tavern housed many men from area militias on the night of April 18th of that year. It is historically significant but few objects are original to the Tavern in 1775. There is some interesting artwork and the actual front door that was hit by a bullet from the battle the ensuing morning. But by far more interesting is the Hancock-Clarke House less than a quarter mile away. It has a small museum of objects relating to the Battle of Lexington and Concord, and a vest owned by John Hancock.

It was the parsonage of the grandfather of John Hancock and of Jonas Clarke who was the town reverend in 1775. On the evening of April 18, 1775 John Hancock and Sam Adams were hiding from the British regulars in this house. Many of the objects there now are original to the house and that period. Since the minister was the most educated man in town and one of the wealthier, the house is very nicely furnished. The house was the destination of Paul Revere and William Dawes on the midnight ride. Our guide explained it very well. She was very sweet and patient with our questions and comments. On my next trip to Lexington I would like to see the Historical Society's third property, the Munroe Tavern, as well as the The National Heritage Museum , which is owned and operated by the Free Masons.

The Wayside

2006-10-13T05:39:00.000-07:00

The oldest parts of the Wayside House in Concord, MA, were constructed in the late 17th century. It was inhabited by the Bronson Alcott family and was the only home that Nathaniel Hawthorne ever owned. Later it was purchased by the Lothrop family. Mr. Lothrop owned a publishing house in Boston and the wife was a distinguished author of children's books. The history of the house, the people who lived in it, and their relationship to major events in American history are clearly explained in an exhibit in the barn, which is adjacent to the the Wayside.

The house is operated by the National Park Service and part of the Minuteman National Historic Park . The ranger had decades of experience and gave a very clear and complete tour. He was clearly a seasoned professional. It is in a bit better condition than the Ralph Waldo Emerson House but it made me wish that our government would spend more on the Park Service. Several years ago the Longfellow House in Cambridge, MA was renovated, and it looks great. Unfortunately many historic house museums are getting fewer visitors than in years past.

McMullen Museum of Art

2006-10-08T14:53:00.000-07:00

Several decades ago many of the major museums in Boston and New York City were free. In the last few years entrance fees have been skyrocketing with the Museum of Modern Art in NYC setting the bar even higher with a $20 entrance fee. Many major Boston Museums such as the Museum of Fine Arts , the Museum of Science , and the New England Aquarium now charge $15 or more. Yet the McMullen Museum at Boston College features some excellent exhibits and is still free! Past exhibits have included Caravaggio, Edvard Munch, and Jewish Women and their Salons. It is less than a ten minute walk from the terminus of the B Green Line T.

The current exhibit made my jaw drop and I remained astounded for the next hour. Cosmophilia: Islamic Art from the David Collection, Copenhagen, is a truly astounding exhibit. Luckily for Boston College, and the University of Chicago where the exhibit will travel next, the building that houses The David Collection is undergoing a year long renovation. The Danish Museum allowed The McMullen to pick and chose from their large collection for display in Boston. The result is an amazing diversity of mediums, styles, and textures, but all of the work is beautiful and of tremendous workmanship.

Glass, wood, ivory, silver, gold, parchment, ceramics, leather, silk, the list of materials used is so extensive. Representations of people, animals, floral motifs, geometric designs, and of course calligraphy abound with a section of hybrids of more than one style. The Sackler Museum at Harvard often has outstanding exhibits of Islamic Arts such as the recent drawings in the Tablet and the Pen, but I have never seen such a diverse exhibit there. The McMullen has it all from a giant carpet to a small vessel for spreading rosewater. Islamic Art has never been a favorite of mine, but this exhibit is a must see.

Orchard House

2006-10-02T12:14:00.000-07:00

Took another day trip to Concord, MA to see Orchard House where Louisa May Alcott wrote Little Women. The leaves are beginning to change and the walk there was very enjoyable. The employees were very welcoming and the grounds were nicely kept. The visit started in the building where Bronson Alcott, Louisa May's father, held philosophical discussion groups. He was one of the leaders of the transcendentalist movement, and also a man who struggled financially for decades. In later years proceeds from Louisa May Alcott's writing helped to support the family.

The docent was young and did an outstanding job at the Orchard House. First she asked for a show of hands of those who had read the book Little Women. Some of us had not. So her tour made references to the book that were easy to follow. Her explanations were clear and concise. She also showed some feeling for the Alcotts and their belief systems. As on any good tour she had amusing anecdotes such as the origin of the phrase "Pop goes the weasel." It comes from a device called a weasel that twirls yarn and compresses with a loud pop at the end.

There were many visitors for a Monday in early October. The whole experience was very pleasant. The guide helped me find the postcards that I wanted to purchase in the store. Concord is such a friendly place to visit. This morning I encountered several walkers who all smiled and said "hello." Someday I hope to take a tour of the Wayside where Louisa May Alcott and later Nathaniel Hawthorne and his wife Sophia lived.

The Concord Museum

2006-09-26T06:04:00.000-07:00

Concord, Massachusetts, is a small town of less than 16,000 people and yet it has lots of interesting history, tourist sites to visit, and wonderful natural areas. Previously in this blog I have written about Walden Pond, Great Meadows, and the Ralph Waldo Emerson House . There are many more things to see and good reasons to visit Concord. The Walden Grille has very tasty food at reasonable prices. There are many historic houses and buildings, some open to the public.

Yesterday I visited the Concord Museum , which was just a one mile walk from the train depot. It breaks Concord history up into four main sections: native people inhabitation and the Puritans, the Revolutionary War period, the American literary renaissance, and the present. The first three periods are well represented and Emerson's study and the period rooms are a treat. The labels are well written. It was not overpriced at $8 for adult admission.

Daytrip to Newport, Rhode Island

2006-09-17T17:28:00.000-07:00

During tourist season Brush Hill Tours offers several low cost bus tours leaving from Boston. Today I took the package to Newport that included visits to the Breakers , Marble House, and a narrated tour along Ocean Drive. The price for the package was $55. This is much less than it would cost to take a Peter Pan bus from Boston, pay for transportation around Newport by trolley, and pay the admissions to the mansions. The company also offers tours to Maine and Plimoth Plantation that are well worth the money.

The Breakers and Marble House were built by the Vanderbilt family in the late nineteenth century. They were only used for eight weeks in the summer and were the site of parties that lasted until dawn. Marble House was only used for a few years before Alva Vanderbilt divorced her husband and married one of his friends. She was an early proponent of women's rights although she seems to have been less concerned with the rights of unaffluent women. The Breakers is the larger of the two, but in my eyes, less visually appealing.

Claremont Trio at the Gardner Museum

2006-09-10T13:55:00.000-07:00

The Claremont Trio performed the third and final concert in a series of Beethoven Piano Trios this afternoon. In the 2005-2006 season the Trio performed two Beethoven programs at the Gardner Museum . All three concerts were outstanding. They have established themselves as one of the most popular ensembles at the Gardner. They play with both passion and a very polished sound.

The Claremont Trio has a website and a blog. The Blog provides insight into the experiences that the women have had touring. They love to eat. Although humorous, the blog is essentially respectful. In the 2007-2008 season they will perform twice at the Gardner. In the meantime they have many concerts planned for the season around the country. I wish that I could attend several this year, but alas...

Labor Day at the Gore Place

2006-09-04T13:08:00.000-07:00

The Gore Place mansion and estate has been steadily improving as a tourist destination. The house is made of brick in the federal style, therefore symmetrical with palladian windows and a simple but handsome facade. The inside has many items original to the house including a huge billiards table. Our costumed guide told us that both Christopher and Rebecca Gore played billiards in the early part of the nineteenth century.

The Mansion was just their summer home and Rebecca had much input on the architectural plans. The theme of today's tour was the labor required in the upkeep of the house. Rebecca was quite shrewd in her designing the width and placement of of servants' staircases and passage ways. Our docent told us that Jefferson's daughter complained that Montecello was well designed for her father's comfort but that the servants' staircases were too narrow for serving trays. Robert Roberts was a freed slave and the butler for the Gores. He wrote a manual for house servants and later became active in the abolitionist movement.

The estate is located on 45 acres on the Watertown/Waltham town line. It has a working farm with special breeds of animals bred to resemble the livestock of the nineteenth century. In the last few years they added a non-sequitor to the farm-a llama. This year comfortable benches and tasteful signage have been added to the grounds. The Gore Place offers concerts in the Mansion itself which are a real treat. They offer several events and special tours during the year.

Ralph Waldo Emerson House

2006-08-19T15:09:00.000-07:00

Have taken so many day trips to Salem both this summer and last, that it was time to try a different commuter rail. The Concord train depot is about half a mile from the town center. The town is well prepared for tourists with an information booth and lots of places to buy a sandwich and soda. After taking my tour of the Ralph Waldo Emerson House , I pulled out a train schedule. The guides seemed surprised and one exclaimed, "That's more than a mile from here. I guess with the price of gas..." Actually, I don't own a car and I really don't mind walking.

The house itself is in bad repair with lots of cracking plaster and a strong smell of mold. The prints on the walls are very yellowed and the spines are separating from the books. The guides were just competent but somehow I thoroughly enjoyed myself. The house felt more like some very old people lived there rather than a sterile museum. Our two guides leaned up against and stroked the objects in the house. They told us that descendants of Emerson did repairs on the house. There was something very charming about my entire afternoon, including my stop at the elegant Concord Public Library. Strangers smiled in the streets and the cars stopped at the crosswalks. Culture shock for a city dweller.

Stephen Phillips House

2006-08-13T06:44:00.000-07:00

Very few museums are still free in this era of rapid increases in admission fees. This is the last summer that the Stephen Phillips House will still give free tours. Historic New England has acquired the property and will charge admission starting next year. In the meantime, it is a real bargain in the MacIntyre District of Salem, MA.

On both visits I have had excellent docents that were well informed and interesting. The house has a long history including five generations of Stephen Phillipses and a divorce in which half the house was moved from four miles away. A good guide can explain it all while talking about the furnishings, which are all original to the house. Also of interest, half the house is Federal style architecture and the other half is Colonial revival. It is well worth a short trip on the commuter rail from Boston.

The Persian carpets, oil paintings, antique furniture, dental moldings, Polynesian war clubs, and large plate collection, all make for an interesting interior. Outside is the carriage house that features a vintage Ford, two Pierce Arrow automobiles custom made in Buffalo, NY, a sleigh, and several carriages. It was originally designed as a cow barn and later had stalls for horses. The last male resident, Stephen Phillips V, drove his three ton Pierce Arrow around Salem through the mid 1950s. Whether you drive or take the commuter rail, go see this house museum.

George's Island

2006-07-29T17:09:00.000-07:00

My sister and I took the Harbor Express ferry to George's Island in Boston Harbor. The ferry covers the five mile trip in just twenty minutes. At twenty knots it is a fast and fun ride. It was much cooler on the Island than in town. Lots of people were sunbathing, eating picnics, and in general having a good time. In peak season the boats leave every half hour on the weekend from Long Wharf. We did not visit the civil war era Fort Warren, where at one point the vice president of the confederacy was held.

Painting Summer in New England

2006-07-19T14:07:00.000-07:00

Having previously looked at the exhibit catalog of Painting Summer in New England, I expected to waste my $17 on a third rate exhibit. It is a short inexpensive commute to Salem from Boston and there are many attractions that appeal to me. For a city of 40,000, they have made the most of their history and assets to make it a good destination for day trippers. The expanded Peabody Essex Museum is the centerpiece of the cultural offerings. Moshe Safdie did such a good job of designing the additions with lots of natural light, nice views, and interesting angles. On my previous visits I had remained on the first floor.

The special exhibit is on the third floor and occupies six rooms. Natural light flows in from the roof and there is plenty of artificial illumination as well. In the exhibit there were nice plush sofas and large Adirondak chairs. Unlike the Museum of Fine Arts , Boston's blockbuster exhibits, I only noticed one painting from the PEM's own collection in their special exhibit. Most paintings were bright and realistic. There were no completely abstract or conceptual paintings. The exhibit was entirely comprised of oils with no drawings or sculpture. Most of the art was from the twentieth century and very tasteful. It was not a daring exhibit, but it was very aesthetically pleasing.

Exhibits at Harvard's Pusey Library

2006-07-12T11:30:00.000-07:00

Some of Harvard University's libraries have exhibits that are open to the public. At Pusey Library all that was required to enter the exhibit areas, was to read some rules, show a picture ID, and fill out some basic personal information. They have an extensive theater collection. On display were small original fliers for such musicals as: Kiss me Kate, Oklahoma, Annie Get Your Gun, South Pacific, Carousel etc. There was a small padded bench in a small room with posters on the walls and the music playing from some of the musicals. It almost seemed a little camp. It must take tremendous effort to mount these exhibits. I hope that many people come to admire them.

On the other end of the hallway is the Theodore Roosevelt collection. Just as with the theater collection, they rotate the exhibits. This time political cartoons about his presidency were featured. Over lunch a historian had pointed out to me that Theodore Roosevelt was criticized by the Republican Party for not being pro business enough. Some of the cartoons confirmed this. Looking at original documents is such an interesting way to learn about history.

USS Salem

2006-07-04T12:44:00.001-07:00

After touring the Adams National Historical Site I took a free trolley to the ferry back to Boston. When I arrived at the dock area, I had an hour before the boat departed. So for $5 I toured the USS Salem , which was a destroyer commissioned in 1943 and launched in 1947. The top deck was in pretty bad repair and I began to wonder what I was doing there. Then I went down to the deck below, and it was there that they had made it into a museum, with a wide assortment of rooms with period artifacts. There was a barber shop, a rec hall for movies, an operating room, an electrical room, a machine shop etc. The ship must mean a tremendous amount to local veterans of the navy and the marines. There were some volunteers on board who looked as if they had been in the service. The ferry from Quincy to Boston costs $6 one way. It was fast and a lot more pleasant than my train ride to Quincy from Boston this morning.

Adams National Historical Site

2006-07-04T12:03:00.000-07:00

Exactly one hundred eighty years ago today John Adams and Thomas Jefferson died, July Fourth, 1826. Today I visited the birthplace of John Adams as well as the birthplace of his son, John Quincy Adams, the second and sixth presidents of the United States respectively. Both father and son had limited social graces and were elected to single terms. John Quincy Adams served in the House of Representatives after his presidency, until he died. The wives of both men were infinitely more socially poised, as well as being intelligent and talented. The correspondence between John and Abigail Adams has now been made famous in books and documentaries. The historian James McCullough did much to rehabilitate the reputation of our nation's second president.

Besides the birthplaces which seem very humble by today's standards, the tour also included the house that the John and Abigail purchased in 1788. Abigail had bought it based on a childhood memory of the parlor. The purchase was made when they were living abroad. It was in a terrible state of disrepair when she arrived with beautiful furnishings from Europe with which to decorate. It took fourteen years to fix it up to her liking.

Four generations lived in the house and it was their great grandson who married a very wealthy woman and spent the money to make it look really grand. Realizing that he had no heirs to live there when he died, he convinced relatives to return objects that had originally been in the house so that it could be opened up to the public. Virtually everything in the house is original to the four generations of Adamses who lived there. This is very rare in a historic house.

The guide for the big house did an exceptional job. He started the tour by telling us that his ancestors came to New England in 1650. He knew a lot of detailed information about the house and its inhabitants. I was on the first tour of the day on the Fourth of July and he did convey his enthusiasm and nuanced patriotism. We ended in the first intentional presidential library that held many books of John Quincy Adams as well as some of the remaining books of his father. The last time that I took the tour our guide was not the expert that I had today. What a fun history lesson!

Friendship the Ship

2006-07-01T12:28:00.000-07:00

Salem is a short ride on the commuter rail from Boston. There are many things to see and do there. Today I visited the Salem Maritime National Historical Site , which is staffed by US Park Rangers. There is a tour of several houses and the Customs House, which I took last year. There is also a replica of an eighteenth century merchant vessel that is docked on Derby wharf. The Friendship replica was built with tourists in mind and it was fun to walk above and below deck. The original ship could hold two hundred tons of cargo. It sailed to many foreign ports buying and selling its cargo to try to maximize profit when it finally returned to Salem.

Before Thomas Jefferson enacted the Embargo Act of 1807, Salem had been a very prosperous City. The ships were kept at port for more than a year and it hurt the port cities of the Northeast including Boston and Newport, RI. The president wanted to keep us out of the conflict during the Napoleonic Wars, but the Embargo Act was very short sighted. Many people don't know that the Northeast threatened to secede from the Union decades before the South finally did.

Spectacle Island

2006-06-30T16:15:00.000-07:00

Spectacle in the Boston Harbor just opened last week to the public for the first time in decades. It used to be a trash dump. Now it boasts a nice small beach with lifeguards on duty, a good view of the Boston skyline and other nearby islands, and many comforts. A brand new building has an exhibit about the Island, restrooms, a snack bar, and rangers to answer questions. Large Adirondak style rocking chairs sit on the porch overlooking the new pier. There are lots of hiking trails that I will explore on a further visit. My cell phone had excellent reception on the Island. The Harbor Express round trip price was $12. The boat was 45 minutes late to pick us up which did not bother me much, although one lady was becoming out of control abusive towards everybody she could find to listen. Most of us, I think, had a very nice excursion to Spectacle. It is bound to become more crowded and popular in the future. Some scheduling mistakes in the second week of service are bound to arise. I plan to return soon.

Seven Times Salt

2006-06-16T06:00:00.000-07:00

The four member early music ensemble was accompanied by Michael Barrett tenor and recorder player last night. They performed the music written by seventeenth century expatriate Englishmen. Daniel Meyers on the bagpipes was a treat. We were provided with the lyrics to the songs and Barrett deviated considerably from the text. Still his performance was spirited and well executed. I would highly recommend a concert of the group Seven Times Salt.
My generous friend not only treated me to the concert, but also a CD by the ensemble, and a tasty dinner.

The Longfellow House

2006-06-14T13:36:00.000-07:00

On Brattle Street in Cambridge, just outside of Harvard Square, is a large yellow mansion where George and Martha Washington stayed during the siege of Boston 1775-1776. The British troops were finally ejected from the town and the Washingtons left soon after. The poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow was born in Portland, Maine in 1807. Thirty years later he accepted the professorship of modern languages at Harvard and moved into the House now named after him. At first as a tenant and then owner, he lived in that house for the rest of his life. Longfellow's maternal grandfather, Peleg Wadsworth, served under George Washington. Longfellow really wanted to live in the House occupied by General Washington and at first even slept in the same bedroom that the general had occupied.

Longfellow wrote so many very popular poems in the house including Cross of Snow, Song of Hiawatha, and the Children's Hour. Charles Dickens visited him in that house twice, once in1842, and the second time in 1867. Longfellow was curious about Walt Whitman's free style of verse and did meet him once as well. Longfellow was opposed to slavery, a proponent of women's education, interested in the plight of the native American, and it seems a very sentimental man. He outlived both of his wives. His oldest daughter Alice was one of the founders of Radcliffe College, which at that time was called the Annex of Harvard. Alice never married and lived in the house until her death in 1928.

The House was well staffed today. As I walked up to the main entrance I was greeted by a ranger. In the garden another ranger was trimming the shrubbery and I chatted with her. The rangers are doing research so that they could restore the gardens to much what they were like when Alice tended them. I was the only person on my tour. The guide has been there for several years and I had taken one of his tours before. He recites lines of Longfellow's poetry in every room and obviously thinks that the poet was a great man. He even offered to answer more of my questions after the tour was finished one hour later. It was a very enjoyable afternoon activity.

Fogg Art Museum

2006-06-12T15:47:00.000-07:00

After work I visited the Fogg Art Museum. It is one of my favorite destinations. There I saw an erudite docent who also attends conversation groups at the French Library. It is always a pleasure to talk about art with somebody as knowledgeable as her. She knows the collections at the Fogg and Sackler Art Museums at Harvard very well. We both enjoy their paintings by Ingres. She recommended that I request to see some of his works on paper at Harvard's Mongan Print Center.

After chatting with her I admired the temporary exhibit American Pastels and Watercolors 1875-1950 for the sixth time since it opened in April. June 24th will be the last day that it will be on display. The only temporary exhibit that I liked better at the Harvard University Art Museums was the Degas at Harvard. That was spellbinding. Too many people go to the blockbusters at the Museum of Fine Arts and never visit the Harvard Museums. They do not know what they are missing.

La Donna Musicale Concert in the Back Bay

2006-06-09T05:57:00.000-07:00

La Donna Musicale performs music mostly composed by women. This was the second concert in the SoHIP series that my generous friend has treated me to this summer. My cultural life is much richer thanks to him. La Donna Musicale performed baroque music including compositions by Elisabeth Jacquet de la Guerre. Their sound was excellent, better than the Newton Baroque that we heard last week.

Museum of Science

2006-06-05T15:36:00.000-07:00

The Museum of Science has not changed that much in the last three years. We walked by the area with live butterflies. It looked like an interesting experience, but I had been in the butterfly part of the Franklin Park Zoo several summers ago. They have a theater with 3D movie shorts, but we passed on that too. The new exhibit on predicting weather was well done with Mish Michaels from CBS4 News in many of the video clips.

What really interested me were the walkabout gliders. A volunteer makes gliders fly across the room simply by creating an updraft with a plexiglass sheet. There are no moving parts. He walks underneath the glider with a sheet of plastic which generates air currents that keeps the planes afloat. As if that were not impressive enough, he has modified dead butterflies so that he can make them appear to fly across the room.

He gave me the chance to keep a foot long glider in the air. After a few tries and a lot of running around, I was able to keep it up in the air for awhile. It was very good fun albeit a little tiring. He has a pilot license and he flies gliders, so he knows a lot about flight and lift.

Sailing Lesson on the Charles River

2006-06-05T15:21:00.000-07:00

I had not been in a sailboat for nearly twenty years and I wondered if I might tip it over. The boat was very small. My buddy has years of experience volunteer teaching sailing, and he did a good job of building up my confidence. For only a minute or two I held the tiller, but that was fine for today. It was a lot more fun than I expected it to be. Some of the basic terminology began to come back to me.

Laura McPhee's Photography of the American West

2006-06-03T11:47:00.000-07:00

The exhibit at the Museum of Fine Arts, River of No Return, is certain to be a crowd pleaser. The label copy would lead one to believe that it was more provocative and controvertial than it really is. Rather than it being a shocker or providing a jolting experience, it conveys the natural beauty of central Idaho. The very large photographs are very clear and were not digitally made or tampered with. It features just what I would expect of the West; hunting, fishing, farming, mountains, mining, panning for gold, a wildfire, a Native American, and an eighth grade girl in many poses who never smiled. I didn't see the controversy. This is how some people live, work, and feed themselves in this rural area. It is easy for us city dwellers to be self righteous about our lifestyles, but we rarely have to worry where our next meal is coming from or how we could possibly scratch out a living when there are absolutely no jobs.

I loved the beautiful photographs and the respect with which Ms. McPhee treated her subjects. There were many pictures of a girl named Matte, one in which she wore her grandmother's wedding dress. No smile but such interesting and hard to read facial expressions. Matte had a deadpan look as she posed holding a large live turkey upside down. In another she held a bird by its wingtips. She also posed alone in her school bus. The genius of the picture was in the angle at which it was taken. The Sawtooth Mountains make a lovely backdrop for many of the pictures. It is an exhibit that I would like to see several times. Laura McPhee is a professor just a few blocks away at the Massachusetts College of Art. She made very good use of her two year sabbatical in Idaho.

Newton Baroque Concert

2006-06-02T05:55:00.000-07:00

The Society for Historically Informed Performance features concerts during the summer, when most concert series are over for the season. They are held in a local church and fans are passed out at the beginning of each performance because the heat can become oppressive. Newton Baroque performed concerti inspired by a composer that is not well known in the West. Johann Georg Pisendel (1687-1755) was the concert master of the orchestra for the court of Dresden. He was well liked and respected by his contemporaries including Telemann, Vivaldi, and J.S. Bach.

The Newton Baroque chose pleasing music by these composers. Their performance was competent but not inspired. Some of the other ensembles performing in the SoHIP series this summer have a lot of experience and a very polished sound. Hopefully my generous friend will invite me to some more concerts in this series. He is a real early music aficionado. I cannot remember him complaining about any concert that we have attended. He always applauds with great enthusiasm.

Water Themed Afternoon

2006-05-29T15:03:00.000-07:00

The Long Wharf area is lively and fun on warm days in the summer. It is a short walk to Quincy Market, Faneuil Hall, the North End, and the New England Aquarium. Harbor tours, whale watches, science cruises, small tall ships, and Provincetown ferries all leave from the wharf. This afternoon I took the round trip commuter boat to Charlestown. It took half an hour and cost a total of $3. It was nice to get some ocean breeze and a view of the harbor and skyline. It was a good day for it.

Immediately afterward I met a friend and we took a quick walk through the New England Aquarium. Since we had a free pass it did not seem wasteful just to spend 45 minutes inside. The Amazing Jellies exhibit was the highlight. I overheard a father telling his son that jelly did not come from jellyfish. We also watched divers at the top of the tank, who were following the sharks around with fish on the ends of sticks. The sharks were not interested. We were told that they had just eaten that morning. Not that much had visibly changed since our last visit one year ago.

The Boston Public Library

2006-05-24T14:25:00.000-07:00

The main branch on the Boston Public Library (BPL) in Copley Square is a nice place to visit. It has excellent research facilities and a large rare book collection. The McKim building, which is the older part of the library, features large murals on the third floor by John Singer Sargent, and rotating art and rare book exhibits. Free art and architecture tours are led by volunteers at various times during the week. Today I saw sheet music and librettos of Mozart's music from the late eighteenth Century and early to mid nineteenth Century. There was a much larger exhibit of vintage and antique items and memorabilia relating to Joan of Arc. For anybody with an interest in her story and the later embellishments, it is a must see. Since nobody knows what she looked like, the pictures of her run the gamut from childlike and very feminine to strong and courageous. The collection was a donation to the BPL from Cardinal John Joseph Wright who used to shelve books in that very library. Who says that library work cannot lead to bigger things?

Brookline Artists' Open Studios

2006-05-20T11:41:00.000-07:00

Brookline artists are exhibiting their work in their homes as well as public buildings this weekend. A nice color brochure with pictures of the art as well as a map of sites was printed in advance. It is a well organized event with green balloons outside each place where art is on display. The quality of the art and photographs varies widely as could be expected.

Frances Nason Schreiber made some handsome watercolors with an especially nice sunset. Jenny Amory had lush green photos of both Maine and the Dominican Republic. Lina Marks exhibited elegant collages made of tiny squares of colored paper. Her landscapes were beautiful. In the same room her daughter Nancy Marks showed her own prints.

Gillian Jackson's nature photography was outstanding. Two photos of Elbow Beach in Bermuda showed a white beach with surf and an oncoming storm in the distance. They were majestic. Some of the other photographers work was uninspired. Most of the totally abstract work did little for me. A sunny Saturday with a cool breeze made for a good day trekking around Brookline.

Protecting African Elephants from Poachers

2006-05-19T09:17:00.000-07:00

Much of the big game in Africa is on the decline, largely from habitat loss and poaching. One of the most effective ways that elephants have been protected has been the 1990 worldwide ban on the trade in ivory. The United States alone used to be responsible for importing 45% of the ivory from recently slaughtered elephants. Last night I listened to a lecture by Dr. Delia and Mark Owens, an American couple from Georgia, who devoted ten years of their lives trying to prevent poachers from completely decimating the elephant population in the North Luangwa National Park in the northeast region of Zambia. The Owens Foundation has a good website. Now they are on a two month lecture circuit to promote their new book, "Secrets of the Savanna". They had a high tech presentation with video clips, photos, and music. They no longer live in Africa, but the research portion of the project they started continues and is supported by the Frankfurt Zoological Society of Germany. The Owenses continue to support the community development work in the villages surrounding the NLNP, which is now run by their Zambian protege Hammer Simwinga.

In 1985 the Owenses entered the North Luangwa Park to do research on lions. They soon realized that organized poaching was decimating the wildlife and that the elephants were in imminent danger. They switched priorities and developed a multi-faceted plan to save the remaining elelphants. Mark and Delia provided jobs for the local people that paid more than poaching. They set up schools and loaned money for the development of small businesses. They also armed and paid game wardens as well as training them. They met with some initial success. Then the conflict grew as the poachers threated the Owenses. Mark dive bombed the poachers camps with his plane and shot cherry bombs at them to try to scare them away. Die-hard environmentalists might be delighted with this approach, but I did wonder where American nationals should draw the line in deciding the future of territories within sovereign states. Do the ends always justify the means?

What finally ended the poaching and conflict between Mark and the poachers was the international ban on the trade in ivory, and the fact that slowly the villagers realized that Delia and Mark were on their side and improving their lives, not just the elephants. Now foreign nationals come to this region on safari to see the animals. The elephant population in the park has climbed to 2,200 from a low of 1,3oo. From the mid 1970s to the late 1980s, 93% of the elephants in the park had been shot and killed. Since the elephants with the largest ivory were killed by poachers for their tusks and meat, the elephant social structure has been terribly disrupted. Females are producing their first calf at a much younger age and young males have become much more aggressive with each other. It is not certain whether the stable matriarchal family group structure will return or if the elephant culture has been permanently disrupted there. As long as the ivory ban is in place and the local people have jobs, the elephants stand a chance.

A Biography of a Powerful English Lady

2006-05-11T10:40:00.000-07:00

Listening to this afternoon's lecture made me wish that I knew more about the Tudor Period in England. Bess of Hardwick lived from 1527 until 1607, which was a very long life in that era. Historians had given her a bad reputation as a "shrew" (whatever that is supposed to mean), and Mary Lovell, the author of the recent biography, wanted to set the record straight. Although three previous biographies had been written about Bess, Ms. Lovell read many original love letters between Bess and her four husbands, as well as court documents, and other original sources. The story that emerged from Bess's long and complex life was hard for me to follow. Although born into a very poor noble family, and having little formal education, she navigated her life through the troubled times of King Henry the VIII, King Edward VI, Mary Queen of Scots, And Queen Elizabeth I. In fact she outlived all four of them.

Bess must have been a very charming woman, because many powerful men and women were extremely fond of her. Her friends helped her immensely during her life. At least two of her husbands were passionately in love with her. She liked large houses, fine furniture, and silver. Not only did she enjoy high living, she also knew the legal system very well and defended her rights and wealth. She improved Hardwick Hall and Chatsworth, both of which became very large estates. She mined slate on her lands, built a glass factory, and had large revenue from agriculture . Bess understood finance and business as well as courtly behavior and entertaining. Mary Lovell's talk about her book "Bess of Hardwick: First Lady of Chatsworth" was accompanied by very good slides and a dry wit. I did not mind sitting for nearly ninety minutes, as she was a very engaging speaker.

Harvard Museum of Natural History

2006-05-09T05:51:00.000-07:00

Recently I visited the Harvard Museum of Natural History (HMNH) with a man of many talents. He plays the cello, sails, is a ski instructor in the winter, and is an informal science educator. Also being an avid gardener, he was very interested in the glass flower collection. About a hundred years ago, a German father and son team made exquisite reproductions of flowers using blown glass and wire for Harvard. The flowers are surprisingly realistic and a delight to see.

The comparative zoology collection features mammals as large as a giraffe and a tiger as well as vultures, songbirds and numerous other animals. We briefly looked at minerals and the climate change section before crossing over for a fifteen minute walk through the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology In ninety minutes we just did a brief overview of all of the collections of the Museums. The HMNH is a Museum worth visiting several times. There are just too many specimens to admire in one visit. It is free on Sunday mornings as well as to Harvard employees and those with a valid Cambridge Library Card.

Great Meadows Wildlife Sanctuary

2006-05-07T14:00:00.000-07:00

Today I had planned to go see the exhibit Painting Summer in New England, at the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA. Furthermore, I had reserved a free ticket for a lecture about the exhibit. That would have made for a nice day. However, my friend from Rhode Island wanted to take me to the Great Meadows National Wildlife Sanctuary in Concord, MA. I had not been there for a few years and did not hesitate to accept the offer. It often has unusual wildlife and a cacophany of bird calls.

We had trouble finding it again as it is not well marked from the road. The trails were in good shape and the sun pretty persistent. Lots of colorful Red Wing Blackbirds with striking markings, Canadian Geese, and two swans were easily in view. We could see large fish close to the surface of the Great Meadows Pond. Obstructions have been erected to keep the carp from entering the major pond area, because they destroy the habitat for native species. Kayakers were paddling up and down the Concord River, coming ashore to walk partway around the Pond. I had not expected to spend so much time in nature so early this year. For the last two years I have had to be content with city parks and arboretums. The trips to Walden Pond and to Great Meadows have been an unexpected treat.

Walden Pond

2006-04-30T12:22:00.000-07:00

A friend drove up from Rhode Island and took me to Walden Pond . We walked over to the site of Henry David Thoreau's original hut in the woods. Thoreau lived in the hut from 1845 until 1847 although he did have visitors and he often went into the nearby town of Concord. Walden Pond State Reservation is managed by the Division of Conservation and Recreation. There was a $5 charge for parking and the trails were clean and well maintained. Visitors were swimming, sunbathing, fly fishing, and kayaking, and of course walking around the Pond. Being a city dweller, it was the first time that I had walked over uneven terrain in quite some time. I had not been to Walden pond in three years. It seems that I always enjoy myself when I go there. With luck I will not have to wait another three years before I return.

Today we did not visit the rest of Concord and Lexington. The Concord Museum features the study of Ralph Waldo Emerson and other interesting exhibits. Nearby is the Old Manse where Nathaniel Hawthorne spent the first few years of his marriage to Sofia. It overlooks the Old North Bridge where colonists clashed with the British military in the first shots of the Battle of Lexington and Concord. Two house museums owned by Historic New England , the Walter Gropius House and the Codman House are close to Walden Pond itself. This is just the beginning of the historic sites to visit in the area. In the summer Lexington and Concord are popular tourist destinations.

Greatest Hits of the Undersea World

2006-04-29T18:12:00.000-07:00

The New England Aquarium (NEAQ) started an expansion project several years ago that they never completed. The short explanation is that they just plain ran out of money. Gone are the sea lion shows that were the delight of many. However, they did add a very large IMAX theater and decided to opt for movies in simulated 3D. The special glasses are issued before every show. Even with a discount, the movies are expensive, and they are short (about forty minutes). For years the nearby Museum of Science had the only large screen format in the area. That Museum has a giant curved screen that is sometimes referred to as an Omnimax theater that shows IMAX films. The NEAQ seemed to be opening their theater in direct competition with the Museum of Science. Now a local furniture retailer has an IMAX theater and there may be others nearby as well.

This evening I went to see Deep Sea 3D at NEAQ's Simon's IMAX Theater. It was like a greatest hits of the undersea world. The photography was beautiful. It was highly entertaining although the music was a little over the top. Featured were coral reefs, sharks, whales, octopi, jelly fish, shrimp, etc. Every ocean life form that I might want to see made a brief appearance. The educational content was there but obviously of secondary importance. Conservation was touched upon lightly, but the narration did not come across as self-righteous or moralistic. The ticket salesman said that it was one of his favorite 3D IMAX shows. I could see why.

American Watercolors and Pastels 1875-1950

2006-04-29T07:23:00.000-07:00

On Friday I went to visit the American Watercolors and Pastels exhibit at the Fogg Art Museum. It was my third time viewing the exhibit, and I will probably go to see it again before it leaves on June 25, 2006. Harvard has assembled an excellent small collection of works that show the range of what can be accomplished in these media. My favorite work was "Summer in Venice" by Maurice Brazil Prendergast. Before this exhibit I was unfamiliar with his artwork. Winslow Homer dominates the exhibit with nine watercolors. There are three very bright and cheerful watercolors by Charles Demuth on display including a still life " Fruit and Daisies". The eight works by James McNeill Whistler include a chalk drawing on paper, pastels, and watercolors. His range and talent as an artist are showcased. A twelve page gallery guide with nice color pictures is offered at no extra charge.

Daytrip to Providence, Rhode Island.

2006-04-26T16:36:00.000-07:00

It is very easy to get from Boston to Providence. The commuter rail, and for a little more money, Amtrak leaves from more than one location in Boston. The ride can take between forty and seventy minutes each way. This afternoon I walked from the Providence station to the Rhode Island School of Design Museum in about fifteen minutes. The campus of RISD has a lot of interesting and pleasing architecture. It is on the side of a hill in a historic section of the City.

The Museum was a real treat with very diverse collections, including Japanese, South Asian, Chinese, and an immense wooden Buddha that dwarfs any Asian sculpture on display at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. A very knowledgeable and entertaining guard showed me the woodpecker hole in the statue. He also told me stories about the family that collected the textiles from the old silk road trade route. The textiles on display today were mostly made from cotton. The guard told me that only three percent of the Museum's collection is currently on display. When a planned addition is complete, four percent of the collection will be able to be shown at any one time. He showed real pride in the collection and was also very proud to work at the Museum. Another guard seemed pleased that I had taken the train from Boston to see the RISD Museum. She said that she should consider a day trip to Boston someday.

On the walls were at least four paintings by John Singer Sargent, who is a favorite American painter of mine. Also there was a Mary Cassatt, a Childe Hassam, and a host of French impressionists. The American wing had very nice period rooms and an excellent collection of silver. Drawers could be pulled out of the wall displaying additional cutlery. The modern art did little for me, but I did recognize many of the names of the artists, such as Jackson Pollack and Jeff Coons. I skipped the ancient Greek and Roman works to allow for a little time in the gift shop. The audio guide was free with the $8 entrance fee. The afternoon could not have gone more smoothly.

Concert at Faneuil Hall

2006-04-23T17:01:00.000-07:00

Faneuil Hall is a very historic building that was the site of town meetings until Boston became incorporated as a City. Sometimes when the hall is not in use for concerts and other venues, U.S. Park Rangers welcome visitors and interpret the site. On one afternoon several summers ago I was the only visitor and the ranger told me that his sympathies were with the loyalists during the Revolutionary War. It is interesting to ponder what life would have been like if we had lost the war. Would we be more like Canada or Europe? Would we have ever become a world power? A reliable source told me that there used to be several Park Rangers in Boston who had similar sympathies. Different viewpoints make history an exciting subject, whether I agree with them or not.

This afternoon a generous friend treated me to an excellent concert held in the Great Hall on the second floor of Faneuil Hall, as well as dinner following the concert. The Boston Classical Orchestra started with a symphony by J.C. Bach, and then did Haydn's Farewell Symphony. The latter was quite a show as in the last movement the musicians slowly left the stage one by one carrying their instruments with them, as the remaining musicians continued to play. I was impressed with the grace with which the bass player took her leave. Finally there were only two violins playing a duet until they left as well. The reasoning behind this entertaining and unusual piece was explained to us in the pre-concert lecture. Mozart's Concerto for Flute and Harp was a gentle work that showcased the talents of Elizabeth Rowe, on flute, and Ann Hobson Pilot, on Harp, both musicians from the Boston Symphony Orchestra.

Immediately after the concert we walked the short distance to Durgin Park Restaurant. Soon after we were seated at a table on the second floor, the musicians walked through the dining room carrying their instruments. They proceeded to the third floor where there must have been an end of the season reception. Joining them was Michael Dukakis, who is on the advisory council of the Orchestra. Generations of Bostonians have eaten at Durgin Park in the relaxed and spirited dining room. Needless to say, it was a very enjoyable afternoon and early evening.

Armenian Rugs and Weavings at the ALMA

2006-04-21T15:44:00.000-07:00

My second visit this month to the Armenian Library and Museum of America was just as enjoyable as the first. The exhibit "Armenian Rugs and Weavings: Textiles of the Hearth and Heart" just opened last night. The rugs and textiles are beautiful and the sheer diversity of style and design took me by surprise. I had expected them to look like Persian carpets, but they seemed to be distinctly different, even though an employee told me that it can sometimes be difficult to define what an Armenian rug is. All on display had Armenian inscriptions and in many cases they featured large Armenian letters directly woven into the design. The employee was kind enough to spend fifteen minutes answering all of my questions and then adding lots of background information about Armenia and Armenian culture.

There is an independent country called Armenia that has been in its third republic since it declared its independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Its first republic was established in 1918 and recognized internationally as a sovereign state. It was short lived because it was invaded by the Soviet Union. The Second republic under Soviet rule lasted from 1920 until 1991. On April 24, 1915 a large group of Armenian doctors, lawyers, intellectuals and poets such as Daniel Varoujan were massacred in Turkey. Earlier today this massacre was commemorated at the Massachusetts State House. As I mentioned in my last posting about the ALMA, the Armenian genocide is dealt with in a nuanced and very tasteful manner here. A small carpet was on display featuring the face of Varoujan with some family pictures underneath it.

Swan Boat Ride

2006-04-18T12:03:00.000-07:00

After work I took the T to Arlington Street Station and walked through the Public Garden. The trees are budding and just a few tulips are in flower. A young family with three small children, a picnic basket, and a huskie shepard, were sitting on a towel eating a late lunch. For $2.75 I had my first swan boat ride of the Season.
The Swan Boats seat about fifteen people each, on wooden benches and the whole boat itself is powered by a kid pedaling on the back. The ride lasts about fifteen minutes and it does a loop inside the small pond in the Public Garden. The woman taking tickets said that the swan boat rides started in 1877. The ride was relaxing and I saw ducks and Canadian Geese, but no sign of swans as of yet.

The Armenian Library and Museum of America

2006-04-15T13:09:00.000-07:00

The The Aremnian Library and Museum of America (ALMA), in Watertown, MA, has always been one of my favorite destinations. It is conveniently located in Watertown Square on several bus routes and near some very reasonable eateries. Its hours are limited so it is best to check in advance before planning a visit. It is a welcoming space and many of the exhibits change over time, so it is always fun to return and see what is new. Today the curator was kind enough to chat with me, despite the fact that he was very busy preparing for the opening April 20th of "Armenian Rugs and Weavings: Textiles of Heart and Hearth."

The third floor features contemporary art. One floor down are the permanent exhibits including some unusual musical instruments, a subdued memorial to the Armenian Holocaust, and two paintings by Dr. Jack Kevorkian. The first floor has rotating exhibits of textiles and clothing. On a previous visit wedding attire was featured. This time it was "Undercover Armenian Textiles of Bed and Bath". Some wonderful old maps were on display although I must confess that my knowledge of the geography of the area where Armenians live and have lived is limited.

Much of the first floor space was being prepared for the rugs to hang there. I would like to return this summer and see them in their glory. Today there was a children's event upstairs. On other visits I have seen meetings on the third floor in session. The ALMA seems to be an active center, but the Museum itself usually has fewer visitors than I would expect considering the quality of its contents. As I was leaving, a family announced that they had just driven down from Toronto. They wanted to know if the Museum could be kept open after closing time for them. The busy curator who had just taken time to answer my questions, said that he would be working late, and of course they could stay late as well. I owe him a thank you note. I hope that the family from Toronto thanks him as well. The biggest Museums in Boston lack the charm of smaller institutions such as this one.

The Gibson House Museum

2006-04-14T13:48:00.000-07:00

A college student gave a fairly good tour of the The Gibson House Museum today. It is a Victorian row house in the Back Bay of Boston on Beacon Street near the Public Garden. The inside looks a little shabby and run down. It could definitely use some more attention. Still it does a good job of documenting the living conditions of the middle class in Victorian Boston. It was my third visit and I enjoy the tour every time I go.

Until just a few months ago there were guides living in the house. That must have been quite an experience to live in a historic house with period furnishings. Many of the paintings in the house are imitations of famous paintings and the wallpaper is made to look like much more expensive wall covering. To me that makes the house more interesting. The corners cut to impress visitors are all part of the story of the middle class of that period.

The Fogg Art Museum

2006-04-10T16:45:00.000-07:00

Visited the Fogg Art Museum, which is one of several Harvard University Art Museums. The Fogg features American and European works; the Busch Reisinger has German art; and the Sackler has Asian, Middle Eastern, and ancient art. The Fogg has vast collections that are primarily used for educational purposes and are rarely on display to the public. The print department has limited hours when the general public can view specific works on paper and photographs upon request.

Harvard trains its docents well. A wide variety of art tours and gallery talks are offered during the academic year. Some days I am the only person to take a specific tour. Often the docents will custom tailor the presentation to match my interests. My guide today had lived in the Netherlands for four years. She gave me a very thorough tour of Dutch Golden Age and Flemish paintings, with a smattering of Poussin (French Baroque) and original clay models by Bellini. (Italian Baroque Sculpture) She was patient with my questions and observations.

There is so much that I could say about this Museum alone. It has much of the intimacy of the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum but many more changing exhibits. In a future blog entry I will write about the watercolor and pastel exhibit that just opened there.

LYRICA Boston Concert

2006-04-09T14:18:00.000-07:00

Lyrica Boston gave an outstanding performance of Schubert's Quintet for two violins, viola, and two cellos in C Major. The musicians were in perfect synch with each other and that missed note that I always wait for never came. It was really superb. The room was small and very live without any dampening, so every minute sound was amplified. In this case it was all the better for the audience. The first violinist, Laura Bossert, said that at first it was a little intimidating to perform there. The musicians very graciously mingled with the audience after the concert.

I arrived early and found a seat in the second row. What a treat to see talented musicians perform from only a few feet away. The concert was free and it seemed that every seat was taken. The Quintet in C Major itself is a beautiful and popular piece of music. These five musicians had only played together as a group for one year although some had collaborated with each other for seven years. Ashley Vandiver was second violin, Paula Majerfeld played the viola, and the two cellists were Yuan Zhang and Nick Upton. Bravo!

Qing Dynasty Chinese Compound

2006-04-04T13:31:00.000-07:00

The Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA has several historic houses on and off their property. The most famous is the Yin Yu Tang compound that was taken apart in China and reassembled in the parking lot. Once they had reassembled the Chinese building they built an extension to the Museum around it. The website has lots of pictures and information about the residence and the family who lived there for many generations. For those interested in China and the China trade, this house and the Museum are a must see.

The Yin Yu Tang house has antique furniture as well as more modern items such as a loudspeaker installed during the reign of Chairman Mao. A hand held device provides detailed information about the compound as you tour it. The exhibit outside has additional information that is well worth the time. On each visit there is only thirty minutes allotted inside the house, so a little advance preparation at the accompanying exhibit or at the website is a good idea.

Musicians of the Old Post Road

2006-04-03T11:25:00.000-07:00

The Musicians of the Old Post Road perform early music and romantic era classical music on period and reproductions of period instruments. The group attempts to perform in settings that would resemble where the music might have been performed hundreds of years ago. The cellist, flutist, and pianist/harpsichord player are very talented and consistently give excellent performances. The audience is often small so it is easy to get a good view of the musicians and chat with them after their performances.

The theme of their last concert was Mozart in Paris. The cellist told us a little about Mozart's visits to that great city without going into excessive detail. In addition to pieces by Mozart the musicians performed other works by his contemporaries composing in France. This being the 250th birthday year of Mozart, Boston has many concerts featuring his work.

On the day of his birthday Russell Sherman gave an outstanding performance of his piano sonatas in Emmanuel Church on Newbury Street. Sherman is one of the distinguished faculty at the New England Conservatory. Hundreds of people came to that concert and I am certain that none were disappointed. Sherman is giving several concerts of Mozart piano sonatas this season. I hope to be able to attend another concert in the series.

"A Short History of Boston"

2006-03-31T11:37:00.000-08:00

Last month friends and I went to hear Robert J. Allison speak about his book "A Short History of Boston". I arrived early and I said hello to him beforehand. He was warm and inviting. Right away I had a favorable impression of him.

Allison is a professor at Suffolk University on Beacon Hill in Boston. He lectured like a seasoned instructor, asking questions to gauge his audience. He was not reading a dry prepared speech, but instead was conversational and his slides were good. He also teaches a course at the Harvard University Extension School about the history of Boston.

Tudor Place

2006-03-21T12:15:00.000-08:00

I would recommend visiting Tudor Place in the Georgetown neighborhood of Washington, D.C. The first owners were Martha Washington's granddaughter and her husband. Many objects currently on display are original to the house. The house and grounds are very attractive.

The best part of the visit was the very gracious reception that I received from the staff and the volunteer docent. These people had a lot of personal style that made it more than just one more historic house tour. Someday I hope to return and spend more time on the property.

I have not seen Mount Vernon yet, I wonder if it feels like a hurried tour, or if they can convey some of the charm that I have encountered elsewhere in the Washington, D.C. area.

Gardner Museum Concert

2006-03-18T08:39:00.000-08:00

Sunday I plan to hear Beethoven piano trios performed in the Tapestry Room of the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum by the Claremont Trio. This Museum used to be the home of Isabella. She filled it with fine art and a beautiful courtyard with flowers and shrubs. The building is in the style of an Italian Palazzo.

She used to spend summers in Venice where John Singer Sargent and Henry James would visit. There is a lot of information available on-line and in print so I will not go into much detail here. The Museum is a gem and the concerts are good and in a great setting.

Plimoth Plantation

2006-03-16T11:13:00.001-08:00

Soon the living history museum called Plimoth Plantation in Plymouth, MA will be open for the season. The main site is a recreation of the English colony in the town of Plymouth circa 1627. There are many interesting things to see and do there. The best part is asking period actors questions about themselves, their lives in the new world, and their opinions of others. There is also the Wampanoag Home site where native peoples answer visitor's questions from a 21st Century vantage point.

Last Summer I listened in as a visitor from Tennessee asked an actor portaying Spraige(sp?) good questions. The visitor told me that this was his fifth visit and that he did a lot of homework before his visits. I saw maybe five or six actors in the Pilgrim Village that afternoon, but Spraige was definitely stealing the show. He moved a steer with horns pretty close to me that was only attached to his hand with a thin rope. It was was at that point that I made my escape to the Wampanoag Village.